How To Connect Batteries In Series and Parallel
What is a battery bank? No, battery banks are not some financial battery establishments. A battery bank is connecting two or more batteries together for a single application. You might ask, what does this accomplish? By linking batteries together, you can increase the voltage, capacity (AH / Wh), or both.
When you need more power, you can construct a battery bank using widely available batteries. For instance, using a common group-size battery such as a group 24, group 27, group 31, or golf cart GC2 group size is much more affordable than purchasing a heavy group 4D or 8D battery for your RV, camper, trailer, or boat.
Before proceeding with this tutorial, we would like to point out that batteries should only be connected if they are of the same voltage, capacity rating, and are of the same batch. Otherwise, you may end up with charging problems and shortened battery life.
The first thing you need to know is that there are three primary ways to successfully connect batteries: The first is via a series connection, the second is called a parallel connection, and the third option is a combination of the two called a series-parallel connection.
How to wire batteries in series:
Connecting batteries in series increases the voltage of a battery pack, but the AH rating (also known as Amp Hours) remains the same. To connect batteries in a series, a jumper wire connects a battery's negative terminal to another battery's positive terminal. This leaves you with a positive terminal at the beginning of the battery pack and a negative terminal at the end of the battery pack for your application.
For example, the image below shows two 12-volt batteries wired in series, producing a 24-volt battery pack with a total capacity of 35 AH. Remember, only the voltage goes up in series, the AH remains the same.
We often get asked, “How do you create a higher-voltage battery pack?” The answer is you keep connecting batteries in series. For example, our next image shows three 12v batteries in series to create a 36v 35 AH battery pack.
For our last series example, below are four 12v batteries in series to create a 48v 35 AH battery pack.
When connecting batteries in series: Never cross the remaining open positive and negative terminals with each other, as this will short-circuit the batteries and cause damage or injury.
How to wire batteries in parallel:
To join batteries in parallel, use a jumper wire to connect positive terminals together, and another jumper wire to connect negative terminals together. This establishes negatives to negatives and positives to positives. You CAN connect your load to ONE of the batteries, which will drain both equally. However, the preferred method for keeping the batteries equalized is connecting to the positive at one end of the battery pack and the negative at the other end.
How to wire in a series-parallel configuration:
If you have two sets of batteries connected in series, you can wire both sets into a parallel connection to make a series-parallel battery bank. In the images below we will walk you through the steps to create a 24 volts 70 AH battery pack.
Don't get lost now. Remember, electricity flows through parallel or series connections as if it were a single battery. It can't tell the difference.
Therefore, you can parallel two sets of batteries that are in series to create a series-parallel setup.
Creating a series-parallel battery bank:
Step 1 - Series First
First, we recommend putting each set in series first. To do this, you will use a jumper between the inner positive and negative terminals of each set to increase the voltage, as seen in the picture below:
Step 2 - Parallel Each Series Set:
Once each set has been put in series, you can use jumpers to parallel each set together. Basically, the outer positives to positives and outer negatives to negatives, as seen in the final picture below:
In other words, there is no right or wrong method. However, most customers prefer to put their batteries in series first because it allows them to use onboard desulfators more effectively to extend battery life.
Don’t be concerned if a terminal has more than one cable connected to it. It's necessary to construct these kinds of battery banks successfully.
In theory, you can connect as many batteries as you want. But when you start constructing a tangled mess of batteries and cables, it can be very confusing, and confusion can be dangerous. Keep in mind the requirements for your application, and stick to them. Also, use batteries of the same capabilities. Avoid mixing and matching battery sizes wherever possible.
Always remember to be safe and keep track of your connections. If it helps, make a diagram of your battery banks before attempting to construct them. Good luck!
Quick Vocabulary Reference:
AMP Hour is a unit of measure for a battery's electrical storage capacity. A manufacturer will subject the battery to a specific amp draw over a 20 hour timeframe in order to determine the AH capacity. The amp/hr rating can significantly change based on the given load applied for more information see our article: Peukert’s Law | A Nerd’s Attempt to Explain Battery Capacity.
Voltage represents the pressure of electricity. Some applications require more "pressure," meaning higher voltage.
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• Rated article 5 • May 26, 2016 at 12:52 pm
We have 2 × 105Ahr batteries, less than a year old. Thinking of adding a 3rd due to them draining quickly from the refrigerator turning on and off all day.
Is a 3rd battery going to be ok on the system? We are only here couple times a month so we don’t care how long they take to charge.
Thank you!
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I have a battery of 12v,200amp that lasted for 4-6hrs with a 0.5kva inverter, I got an extra battery connected it IN parallel but not a difference in output after achieving 12v,400amp. I thought I’ll get more back up hours what could be the problem.
• April 16, 2016 at 8:43 pm
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with a 2V, 200 Ah battery for a 24V, 300 Ah capacity battery bank?
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I will be using a DC-DC C-tek charger or AC-DC C-tek charger depending on where I am.
What issues will I face charging these batteries together when connected in parallel because of the different capacity ratings?
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Thanks,
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i have a charger that is rated for 12v batteries 20ah-80ah.
im using the 3 batteries in parallel, and that gives me 21ah.
can i charge them with this charger???
or it will cause them to blow.
thx
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My diesel motor has a 65amp alternator. What would you use to put this together? 6v or 12v batteries? what type?
Regulator? What is the best I can do?
• September 7, 2014 at 8:54 pm
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This article successfully answered my question about the parallel battery connection. but i still have a question. 1 have two 12v batteries which i have installed in parallel. i connected the plus and the minus of the #1 battery to the plus and the minus of the #2 battery. i also connected the #1 battery to the solar charge controller. so, can i connect the #2 battery to the inverter? or do i have to charge it to battery #1 too?
• August 19, 2014 at 12:38 am
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is there any other option to chose different battery and that will give me same output.
what is that value of battery plz inform me its urgent. Thanking You
Rabbe
• August 14, 2014 at 4:18 am
• Rated article 5 • August 13, 2014 at 6:20 pm
Pls i have two questions- 1- I have 4 12/150AH batteries , connected in series -parallel, on a 2.4KVA /24V rated inverter .
Please show me how i can calculate the duration it would last if i have an average load of 1000W . 2- How can i integrate a Solar Panel to it the Inverter, to automatically charge the batteries when there is no Public Electricity ? F-Alli
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Thanks,
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Can I connect 8 ×12volts deep cell Marines batteries in Parallelle to a 12 volts inverter?I have 4 ×160 watts 12volts pv Thanks John
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I found it trying to get some idea of how to prolong the use of sets of used ,half dead golf cart batteries on a stand alone 24 V solar system.This is only a non essential system I play around with having nothing better to do but it still runs my fridge as a bonus!
Currently I have 3 strings @ 24 V connected in parallel.Current draw is 12 Amps max about 18 hours every 24 hours.Some cells discharge more than others (on days with no sun),it automatically disconnects when the Voltage gets to 23.0 Volts.
Now the question I wish answered:where in the string setup should the worst of the cells be and what is the benefit or disadvantage of adding more semi faulty batteries to the system.
Kind regards
Andy
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We have 24 batteries 2 volt each just wondering I what sort of charger we would need to charge
Thanks
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Say I’m setting up a 12V house bank for my boat, something like 800 amp-hour of capacity, probably 4 200 amp-hour 12V batteries in parallel. I’ll have an inverter that recommends a 400 amp fuse at the battery. The system will also have a 150 amp alternator for charging from the engine, and a DC distribution panel whose main breaker is 150 amps. The question:
How do I pick the right size cables for the “bridges” within the battery bank? Does it matter which battery serves as the “top”, where the main feeder is connected? Thanks for a great resource! Kirk
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There is a switch on the positive (+) that allows both batteries to run in parallel if needed. The installation comprises a single negative cable (large cross section: 95 mm2) that connects the engine and the engine negative battery pole (Cable NEG A) A similar AWG cable (Cable NEG B) interconnects the negative poles of the two batteries. The battery charger outputs 12.5A on each of two individual cables connected to the positive poles of each battery. A negative lead is connected to the large negative cross section cable. My question is the following:
Can I replace the “Cable NEG B” with a cable of smaller cross section (50 mm2) with only a length of 40 cm and use a negative bus bar for connecting the services individual wires? Basically I can reformulate the question in the following manner: there is any requirement for the negative return between both batteries when they are in parallel to have the same cross section of the positive leads? If so would a minor distance (40 cm) be a big deal considering that a cross section of 50 mm2 can cope with more than 250A of current at 12V? Your comments would be greatly appreciated and congratulations for a great blog. Thanks
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I am planning to enhance the battery capacity.
Simple way is to buy two more 12 40AH batteries. But is it good to build a battery bank like this: two 12v 40 AH in parallel bank and one 12v 75AH battery in series with it. I would like to know whether it would create any charging or capacity issues?
I have a 12V 500W panel array.
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As in text book we can see two DC batteries/Sources are connected in series,while the one is of reverse polarity of the another ( that cause to establish two currents with opposite direction of each other). Under such a series connection, the resultant voltage is measured by subtracting the lower voltage from the higher one. And finally direction of current can be determined after we calculate the resulting voltage.
Now, I wonder whether such a series connection is experienced in our real life, or such a series connection of sources can damage the device (I mean negative terminal of one Battery is connected to negative of another battery OR the vice versa )? I would appreciate your time answering me. Regards
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When you have 10 6 volt 220a/hr batteries and you want to to have a 12 volt bank which is a better way to connect them, in series banks of 2 batteries each then connecting them in 5 parallel banks or making 2 parallel banks of 5 batteries each and putting those 2 banks in series? Both ways give you them same A/hr output and 12 volts.
Thanks,
Mick
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Gpeg
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Thanks for any Help!
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Thanks
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-Plastic 3 shelf cart from Costco 99.00
-3 125AH 12v deep cycle marine batteries from Walmart 250.00
-1 Ramsond Sunray 3000, 12v pure sine wave inverter built in meter 500.00
-2 Anderson connector sets for 4/0 wire 40.00
-1 Heavy duty marine battery switch, internal sealed contacts 40.00
-30’ of 4/0 xflex cable and lugs 250.00
-1 heavy duty 200A fuse 60.00
I keep the batteries float charged until they are needed. When the power goes out, I plug into the inverter and put the battery switch to on and I am up and running. I used the kill-a-watt meter to check all of my essential needs. Sump pump 500w, refrig 135w, hot water baseboard heat 150w, small tv and satellite box 100w, internet modem and router 80w, 60w CFFL bulbs 13w each. Before I see the volt meter on the inverter start to drop (the inverter shuts off at 10.5v)I plug the battery bank into my Chevy Tahoe that has a 8’ set of 4/0 cables attached to my battery with a Anderson connector on it. When the Tahoe runs it charges the batteries and powers what I need. During Hurricane Sandy, most gas stations didn‘t have power so I kept the Tahoe topped off with 5 gal gas cans I filled before the storm which carried me through 4 days until our power was restored. I was able to turn the vehicle on and off every few hours so it did not have to run continiously. I am planning to add 3 more 125A 12v batteries to my setup for longer runtime. This setup is quiet and when the Tahoe runs you cannot hear it in the house. My question is: Would I just need a 250W solar panel with a MPPT charger to charge my batteries if they were depleted to 10.5v and still have some power to run some of my “needs”?
If you want to see my setup, go to www.1pcmedic.com/powercart (give me a few minutes to post the photos)
• December 30, 2012 at 8:23 pm
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• December 28, 2012 at 10:42 am
I am in Afghanistan and want to make a 2 or a 5 KW AC power from battery bank.
the solar panel which i can find here are 160W panels and 70amps up to 150amps battery, and my inverter (dc to ac) is need 12V DC. So can you tell me how to wire batteries and how many solar panels and so on. please.. thanks
• December 19, 2012 at 3:27 am
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1. Is connecting two sets of battery banks in series-parallel connection just a theoretical approach or there are some limitations? 2. What happens if 4 batteries of variable ratings are joined in series parallel? I mean (1st battery)1V,1Ah +ve terminal of which is serially connected with negative terminal of (2nd battery)4V,4Ah which are in parallel to (2nd row 1st battery)2v, 2Ah +ve terminal of which is serially connected with negative terminal of (2nd row 2nd battery)3V,3Ah batteries.
Does the 4V, 4Ah one back flow to 1V,1Ah directly or it will go through 3V and 2V ones first? And can we predict that the resultant output will be 5V,5Ah???
• Rated article 5 • December 13, 2012 at 12:31 am
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Bank 2 : purchased recently(less than 2 weeks old).
All batteries are 12V , 26 AH and same company make, except the age. Initially with just just battery bank one I use to get backup time of 70minutes, with addition of second bank its hardly increased to 120min and sometimes its even less… I had a feeling that the second battery bank(newer one) is not being completely charged due to the first battery bank connected in parallel. Can you suggest me how to isolate the two battery banks during charging.
• October 31, 2012 at 11:38 pm
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Bank 2 – 2 Gel 105Ah batteries – periodically removed
Bank 3 – 1 Gel 15Ah battery – charged, then removed
Bank 4 – 1 Gel 7.5Ah battery – charged, then removed All of these are then connected to the bus bar simultaneously. Will this be ok, will I need diodes?
• Rated article 5 • October 29, 2012 at 8:58 am
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14, floating
2 upon full charge. my question is this: can i build a solar array that will operate this charger? i have a 12volt to 120 volt 1000 watt digital inverter and a solar controll modual…wondering. • October 25, 2012 at 11:38 pm
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Any ideas?
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Super Start® Marine – Deep Cycle Battery
Part Number: 31DCM
• Rated article 5 • October 3, 2012 at 9:03 am
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Congratulations for this site!
I use 6 cell 2300 mAh LiFe battery packs with cells connected serial to get 21,6 V. I use 2 pcs of such packs in parallel to get 4600 mAh with the same voltage.
Recently I have noticed that one of the pack discharges more than the other and it also warms up significantly, while the other one has a normal working temperature and it discharges unusally less.
I drive an RC helicopter with them. Normally with 5,5 minute flying time both packs charges about 1400 mAh, and now the hot one gets 2000 mAh, the colder only 1000 mAh. Normally both packs discharges 1500 mAh.
My questions are: Which pack has a bad cell? The one which is overheated and discharges deeply or the one which does not have high temperature and discharges less then normally.
Thank you.
• September 28, 2012 at 2:16 am
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• Rated article 5 • October 1, 2012 at 7:08 am
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Does it help if I reconfigure my good packs?
Currently I use 6 cells in serial and two of this pack in parallel.
What do you think of a configuration of making a pack with 2 cell parallel and 3 of them in serial. I would get a 9,9 V pack and I would connect two of such packs in serial? Thank you for your assistance. best regards Sándor Szabó
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i can get 24volts with or without increasing the ah.
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How do I find the faulty Battery?
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Sorry, but I am a complete novice, so take the info only with self-checking for accuracy.
Info:
Watts/volts=amps
So, your proposed change is: watts are a 3x’s increase; volts are a 4x’s increase.
You should be reducing overall amp load running through cables and gaining cable life by doing so.
Another handy tidbit:
HPx744=watts A little knowledge is worth it’s weight in gold but ya can’t buy a cup of coffee with either, without a fiat money exchange first.
Value-No Value- Value
The middle step is parasitic energy consumption robbing the system of efficiency, unauthorized by founding engineers, and known as national debt. The congressional service cable attached to the people battery bank and carrying the parasitic draw is huge and a dead-short will destroy the batteries before the service cable is over-heated. To preserve the life of the system, the batteries must have proper in-line fuses in operation.
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