What is a Battery - A Complete Guide to Battery Basics
If you have researched how batteries work or what you should look for when selecting the best high-performance battery, you're probably buried in information, some of which is conflicting. At BatteryStuff, we aim to clear that up a bit.
You've probably heard the term KISS (Keep It Simple, Stupid). I will attempt to explain how lead acid batteries work and what they need without burying you with a bunch of needless technical data.
I have found that battery data will vary somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer, so I will do my best to boil that data down. This means I may generalize a bit while staying true to purpose.
The lead acid battery has been used commercially for over 100 years. The same chemical principle used to store energy is basically what our great-grandparents used.
A battery is like a piggy bank. You'll have nothing left if you keep taking out and putting nothing back. This becomes apparent given the increase in electrical equipment installed in present-day vehicles.
Many vehicles now come with key fobs always searching for a key, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, GPS, and whatever the next great device is, I’m sure it will be installed in a vehicle. All these electronics require a reliable power source, and poor battery conditions can wreak havoc on electrical systems.
Did you know the average auto has 100 - 120 pounds of wire in the electrical system? Look at RVs and boats with all the electrical gadgets that require power. It wasn't long ago when trailers or motor homes had only a single 12-volt house battery.
Today, recreation vehicles can come with power inverters up to 4000 watts, which requires a large RV battery pack. The current BatteryStuff.com RV uses two 6v L16 batteries, equaling 12v 480 AH, and we still have a hard time going a whole weekend without turning on the generator to charge the batteries!
Average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Depending on the depth of discharge, battery life can range between 6 to 48+ months—yet only 30% of all batteries reach the 48-month mark.
When it comes to maintaining the battery, we recommend a smart battery charger. However, a solar charger might be a better option if AC power is unavailable where you store your equipment.
If you can grasp the basics, you'll have fewer battery problems and will gain greater battery performance, reliability, and longevity. I suggest you read the entire tutorial; however, I've indexed all the information for easy reference.
A Few Basics
The lead acid battery is made up of plates that contain lead, lead oxide, and other various elements used to change density, hardness, porosity, etc. A liquid or, in some cases, a gel solution called electrolyte is added to the battery, which is approximately 35% sulfuric acid and 65% water solution. This solution causes a chemical reaction within the battery that produces electrons.
When you test a wet cell battery with a hydrometer, you are measuring the amount of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. If your reading is low, that means the chemistry that makes electrons is lacking. So, where did the sulfur go? It is pulled to the battery plates during discharge and returns to the electrolyte when you recharge the battery.
- Safety
- Battery Application: Deep Cycle vs. Starting
- Wet Cell, Gel-Cell and Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)
- Lithium-Ion & LiFePO4
- CCA, CA, AH and RC; what's that all about?
- Battery Maintenance
- Battery Testing
- Selecting and Buying a New Battery
- Battery Life and Performance
- Battery Charging
- Battery Do's
- Battery Don'ts
Safety
You must think safety when you're working around, and with, batteries. Remove all jewelry. (After all, you wouldn't want to melt your watchband while you're wearing it!) The hydrogen gas that batteries make when charging is very explosive. We have seen several instances of batteries blowing up and drenching everything in sulfuric acid. That was no fun, and would have been a good time to use those safety goggles hanging on the wall. Heck, you could even break out your disco outfit. Polyester isn't affected by sulfuric acid, but anything with cotton will be eaten up. If you don't feel the need to make a fashion statement, just wear junk clothes—after all, polyester is still out of style.
When doing electrical work on vehicles, it's best to disconnect the ground cable. Just remember that you're messing with corrosive acid, explosive gases and hundreds of amps of electrical current.
Battery Types: Deep Cycle vs. Starting
Basically, there are two types of lead acid batteries (along with three sub categories). The two main types are starting (cranking), and deep cycle (marine/golf cart). The starting battery (SLI starting lights ignition) is designed to deliver quick bursts of energy (such as starting engines) and therefore has a greater plate count. The plates are thinner and have somewhat different material composition.
What is a deep cycle battery? The deep cycle battery has less instant energy, but greater long-term energy delivery. Deep cycle batteries have thicker plates and can survive a lot of discharge cycles. Starting batteries should not be used for deep cycle applications because the thinner plates are more prone to warping and pitting when discharged. The so-called Dual Purpose Battery is a compromise between the two types of batteries, though it is better to be more specific if possible.
Lead Acid Battery Types: Wet Cell vs. Gel Cell vs. AGM
The gel cell and the AGM batteries are specialty batteries that typically cost twice as much as a premium wet cell battery. However, they store very well and do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily as wet cell. Although not impossible there is little chance of a hydrogen gas explosion or corrosion when using these batteries; they are the safest lead acid batteries you can use. Gel cell and some AGM batteries may require a special charging rate. If you want the best and most versatile battery, then consideration should be given to the AGM battery type. AGM batteries are great for applications such as Marine, RV, Solar, Audio, Power Sports and Stand-By Power just to name a few.
If you don't use or operate your equipment daily, AGM batteries will hold their charge better than other types. If you must depend on top-notch battery performance, spend the extra money. Gel Cell batteries still are being sold, but AGM batteries are replacing them in most applications.
There is common confusion regarding AGM batteries because different manufactures call them by different names. Some of the more common names are "sealed regulated valve," "dry cell," "non-spillable," and "valve-regulated lead acid" batteries. In most cases, AGM batteries will give greater life span and greater cycle life than a wet cell battery.
SPECIAL NOTE: It's common for individuals to use the term "gel cell" as a generic term when referring to sealed, maintenance-free batteries, much like one would use Kleenex when referring to facial tissue. As a result, we get lots of requests for a gel replacement battery or gel battery charger when in fact the battery is an AGM. For this reason, we always recommend verifying the battery type when purchasing a replacement or looking for a charger to maintain the battery.
Wet Cell
The wet cell comes in two styles: serviceable and maintenance-free. Both are filled with electrolyte and are basically the same. I prefer one that I can add water to and check the specific gravity of the electrolyte with a hydrometer. Also, the serviceable type tends to last a little longer since you can add distilled water when evaporation occurs and treat the battery with an inhibitor such as Battery Equaliser to prevent sulfation. In contrast, with the maintenance free, you cannot do either of the servicing features.
AGM
The Absorbed Glass Mat construction allows the liquid electrolyte to be suspended in a fiberglass matting. This matting surrounds the plate’s active material and in theory this enhances both the discharge and recharge efficiency. AGMs are commonly manufactured for applications that include high-performance engine starting, power sports equipment, deep cycle, solar and storage battery. The larger Deep Cycle AGM Batteries we sell typically offer great cycle life if recharged before they drop below the 50% discharge rate. When deep cycle AGM batteries are discharged to a rate of no less than 60%, the cycle life will generally increase by 300 plus cycles.
The Scorpion motorcycle batteries we carry are a meet or exceed the specification for the OEM battery. We also carry the Motocross branded batteries for those that have brand loyalty to the OEM battery as they are Yuasa’s aftermarket battery.
GEL
The gel cell battery is like the AGM battery in the fact that it is considered non-spillable, but the electrolyte is not a wet liquid. The electrolyte in a gel cell has a silica additive that causes it to set up or stiffen. In most cases the recharge voltage on gel battery is typically lower than a standard flooded wet cell battery or AGM battery, apart from those made by MK Battery where their 12-volt batteries can accept up to 14.6 volts. Most gel batteries can only be charged as high as 14.2 volts per 12-volt battery and are probably the most sensitive battery in terms of adverse reactions to over-voltage charging. Gel Batteries are best used in VERY DEEP cycle application and may last a bit longer in hot weather applications or application where the battery gets excessively discharged. If the incorrect battery charger is used on a gel cell battery, poor performance and premature failure is certain.
Lithium Battery Types: Lithium-Ion vs LiFePO4
The new premium battery on the market is the Lithium battery, often referred to as a Lithium-Ion or LiFePO4 battery. In most cases, they are the same battery as Lithium-Ion is the parent category of the LiFePO4 battery, so some manufacturers use the parent term vs. the specific term.
Deep cycle lithium batteries generally offer up to 3x the cycle life compared to lead acid batteries. Most are designed with a long service life of 10+ years. Lithium also offers a 60% reduction in weight compared to lead-acid batteries.
For comparison, our best lead acid battery is a Lifeline AGM battery that offers about 1000+ cycles at 50% depth of discharge. The BSLBatt Lithium Battery we carry offers over 2000 cycles at a 50% depth of discharge and up to 8500 cycles at a 30% depth of discharge. They are designed for a 15 to 18-year service life, whereas a Lifeline is estimated to have about a six-year service life.
This article covers the Lithium topic from the deep cycle battery perspective. If you are looking for a starting battery, we offer plenty of choices for motorcycles, ATVs, and various other powersport applications. You can learn more about lithium batteries for powersport applications via our Lithium Battery Buyers Guide.
CCA, CA, AH and RC Explained
All of these terms are widely used by battery manufacturers. Look under the hood, and you will most likely see a battery rated with one or more of these terms. The first two in the list below are cranking terms, and the second two are capacity terms. Let's break them down!
CCA
Cold cranking amps is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0°F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather. This measurement is not particularly important in deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly "known" battery measurement.
CA
Cranking Amps are measured at 32°F. This rating is also called marine cranking amps (MCA). Hot cranking amps (HCA) is seldom used any longer but is measured at 80°F.
RC
Reserve Capacity is a very important battery rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80°F will discharge under a 25 amp load until the battery drops below 10.5 volts.
AH
An Amp/Hour is a rating usually found on deep cycle batteries and is a capacity rating. The standard rating is a based on how many amps you can pull out of the battery over a 20-hour period. For a 100 AH rated battery this means you can draw from the battery for 20 hours, and it will provide a total of 100-amp hours. That translates to about 5 amps an hour (5 x 20 = 100). However, it's very important to know that the total time of discharge and load applied is not a linear relationship. As your load increases, your realized capacity decreases. This means if you discharged that same 100 AH battery by a 100-amp load, it would not give you one hour of runtime. On the contrary, the perceived capacity of the battery will be that of 64-amp hours.
Battery Maintenance
A properly maintained battery is important for the ultimate in service life. Consider these points on a regular basis:
- The battery should be cleaned using a baking soda and water solution; a couple of tablespoons to a pint of water.
- Cable connections need to be cleaned and tightened as battery problems are often caused by dirty and loose connections.
- A serviceable battery needs to have the fluid level checked. Use only mineral-free water; distilled is best as all impurities have been removed and there is nothing left that could contaminate your cells.
- Don't overfill battery cells, especially in warmer weather because the natural fluid expansion in hot weather can push excess electrolytes from the battery.
- To prevent corrosion of cables on top-post batteries, use a small bead of silicone sealer at the base of the post and place a felt battery washer over it. Coat the washer with high temperature grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline), then place cable on the post and tighten. Coat the exposed cable end with the grease. The gases from the battery condensing on metal parts causes most corrosion.
Battery Testing
This can be done in more than one way. The most accurate method is measurement of specific gravity and battery voltage. To measure specific gravity, buy a temperature-compensating hydrometer. To measure voltage, use a digital D.C. Voltmeter. A quality load tester may be a good purchase if you need to test sealed batteries.
For any of these methods, you must first fully charge the battery and then remove the surface charge. We recommend letting the battery sit for several hours to remove the surface charge (I prefer at least 12 hours). Letting the battery sit gives you the most accurate result on how the battery will normally act. However, if you need to remove the surface charge faster it is possible to discharge the battery for several minutes. For deep cycle batteries you could simply power the device that uses the battery for several minutes. For starting batteries simply powering the headlight using the high beam can work as well. Once the surface charge has been removed you can begin testing.
State of Charge | Specific Gravity | Voltage | |
---|---|---|---|
12V | 6V | ||
100% | 1.265 | 12.7 | 6.3 |
75% | 1.225 | 12.4 | 6.2 |
50% | 1.190 | 12.2 | 6.1 |
25% | 1.155 | 12.0 | 6.0 |
Discharged | 1.120 | 11.9 | 6.0 |
Load testing is yet another way of testing a battery. A load tester removes amps from a battery much like starting an engine would. Some battery companies label their battery with the amp load for testing. This number is usually half of the CCA rating. For instance, a 500 CCA battery would load test at 250 amps for 15 seconds. However, most load testers will either allow you to input the CCA or in the case of an analog tester it will show you a graph the battery should test at.
A load test should only be performed when the battery is at near or full charge. If you don't own or want to buy a load tester, then simply charge the battery, wait 12 hours, and then take it to an automotive shop for testing. Avoid taking a discharged battery to an automotive shop for testing as the test will only indicate something you already know.
The results of your testing should be as follows:
- Hydrometer readings should not vary more than .05 differences between cells.
- Digital volt meters should read as the voltage as shown in this document. The sealed AGM and gel cell battery voltage (fully charged) will be slightly higher in the 12.8 to 12.9 range. If you have voltage readings in the 10.5 volt range on a charged battery, that typically indicates a shorted cell.
- If you have a maintenance-free wet cell, the only ways to test are volt meter and load test. Any of the maintenance-free batteries that have a built in hydrometer (black/green window) will tell you the condition of 1 cell of 6. You may get a good reading from 1 cell but have a problem with other cells in the battery.
- When in doubt about battery testing, call the battery manufacturer. Many batteries sold today have a toll-free number to call for help.
Selecting & Buying a New Battery
When buying a new battery, I suggest you purchase a battery with the greatest reserve capacity or AH rating as possible. Of course, the physical size and terminal type must be a consideration. You may want to consider a gel cell or an absorbed glass mat (AGM) rather than a wet cell if the application is in a harsher environment, or the battery is not going to receive regular maintenance and charging. AGM and Gel cell batteries typically have a lower self-discharge rate so they can last longer when not being maintained.
Be sure to purchase the correct type of battery for the job it must do. Remember that engine starting batteries and deep cycle batteries are different. Freshness of a new battery is very important. The longer a battery sits the more damaging sulfation build up there may be on the plates. Most batteries have a date of manufacture code on them. While the date code isn’t always apparent many manufacturers or dealers will indicate the month with a letter, such as the letter with "A" being January. The letter is then followed by a number such as “4” corresponding with the year 2021. C4 would tell us the battery was manufactured in March 2021. Remember the fresher the better. The letter "I" is not used because it can be confused with the number 1.
Battery Warranties
As with most warranties, they are often favored by battery manufacturers. Suppose you buy a 60-month warranty battery, which lasts 41 months. The warranty is pro-rated, so when taking the months used against the total retail price of the battery, you end up paying about the same money as if you purchased the battery at the sale price. This makes the manufacturer happy.
What makes me happy is to exceed the warranty. As of the writing of this article, we currently carry motorcycle and ATV batteries by Scorpion and Motocross that come with a replacement warranty. For deep cycle batteries, the MK Battery and Universal Battery line currently have a 1-Year Replacement, and some of our higher-end manufacturers we carry offer higher warranty terms depending on their installed applications.
Battery Life and Performance
The average battery life has become shorter as energy requirements have increased. Two phrases I hear most often are "my battery won't take a charge," and "my battery won't hold a charge." Only 30% of batteries sold today reach the 48-month mark. In fact 80% of all battery failure is related to sulfation build-up. This build-up occurs when the sulfur molecules in the electrolyte (battery acid) become so deeply discharged that they begin to coat the battery's lead plates. Before long the plates become so coated that the battery dies. The causes of sulfation are numerous:
- Batteries sit too long between charges. There are two states when it comes to batteries: They are either being charged or they are self-discharging.
- Battery is stored without some type of energy input. Even if you disconnect the battery it will still self-discharge.
- "Deep cycling" an engine-starting battery. Remember these batteries can't stand deep discharge.
- Not completing the charge cycle. Undercharging a battery will allow the sulfation buildup that occurred during discharge to harden. When this happens, it reduces the area on the lead plates for the chemical reaction to occur thereby reduces the capacity of the battery.
- Heat of over 100°F increases internal discharge. As temperatures increase so does internal discharge. A new fully charged battery left sitting 24 hours a day at 110°F for 30 days would most likely not start an engine.
- Low electrolyte level. Battery plates exposed to air will immediately sulfate.
- Incorrect charging levels and settings. Most cheap battery chargers can do more harm than good. See the section on battery charging.
- Cold weather is also hard on the battery. The chemistry does not make the same amount of energy as a warm battery. Also a deeply discharged battery can freeze solid in sub zero weather. We recommend gel batteries by MK Battery for subzero weather as some of their batteries are rated down to -76°F.
- Parasitic drain is a load put on a battery with the key off. Depending on the parasitic load we have seen batteries discharged in a few days to a few months. We recommend testing your parasitic load so you know what to expect.
Increase Life
There are ways to greatly increase battery life and performance. All the products we sell are targeted to improve performance and battery life.
An example: Let's say you have "toys" such as an ATV, classic car, antique car, boat, Harley, etc. You most likely don't use these toys 365 days a year as you do your car. Many of these toys are seasonal, so they are stored. What happens to the batteries? Most batteries that supply energy to power our toys only last 2 seasons. You must keep these batteries from sulfating or buy new ones. We sell products to prevent and reverse sulfar buildup on batteries. The BatteryMINDer products are patented electronic devices that reverse and prevent sulfation. Also Battery Equaliser, a chemical battery additive, has proven itself very effective in improving battery life and performance. Other devices such as solar trickle chargers are a great option for battery maintenance.
Parasitic drain
Most vehicles have clocks, engine management computers, alarm systems, etc. In the case of a boat, you may have an automatic bilge pump, radio, GPS, etc. These devices may all be operating without the engine running. You may have parasitic loads caused by a short in the electrical system. If you are always having dead battery problems, most likely the parasitic drain is excessive. The constant low or dead battery caused by excessive parasitic energy drain will dramatically shorten battery life. If this is a problem you are having, check out PriorityStart! battery switches to prevent dead batteries before they happen. This special computer switch will turn off your engine start battery before all the starting energy is drained. This technology will prevent you from deep cycling your starting battery.
Battery Charging
Remember, for proper battery maintenance you must put back the energy you use immediately. If you don't, the battery sulfates, which will affect performance and longevity. The alternator is a battery charger. It works well if the battery is not deeply discharged. The alternator tends to overcharge batteries that are very low and the overcharge can damage batteries. In fact, an engine-starting battery on average has only about 10 deep cycles available when recharged by an alternator. Batteries like to be charged in a certain way, especially when they have been deeply discharged. This type of charging is called 3-step regulated charging. Please note that only special smart battery chargers using computer technology can perform 3-step charging techniques. You don't find these types of chargers in parts stores or big box stores.
- The first step is bulk charging, where up to 80% of the battery energy capacity is replaced by the charger at the maximum voltage and current amp rating of the charger.
- When the battery voltage reaches 14.4 volts this begins the absorption charge step. This is where the voltage is held at a constant 14.4 volts and the current (amps) declines until the battery is 98% charged.
- Next comes the Float Step. This is a regulated voltage of not more than 13.4 volts and usually less than 1 amp of current. This in time will bring the battery to 100% charged or close to it. The float charge will not boil or heat batteries, but it will maintain the batteries at 100% readiness and prevent cycling during long term inactivity. Note: Some gel cell and AGM batteries may require special settings or chargers.
Battery Dos
- Think Safety First.
- Do read entire tutorial.
- Do regular inspection and maintenance, especially in hot weather.
- Do recharge batteries immediately after discharge.
- Do buy the highest RC reserve capacity or AH amp hour battery that will fit your configuration.
Battery Don'ts
- Don't forget safety first.
- Don't add new electrolyte (acid).
- Don't use unregulated, high-output battery chargers to charge batteries.
- Don't place your equipment and toys into storage without some type of device to keep the battery charged.
- Don't disconnect battery cables while the engine is running (your battery acts as a filter).
- Don't put off recharging batteries.
- Don't add tap water as it may contain minerals that will contaminate the electrolyte.
- Don't discharge a battery any deeper than you possibly have to.
- Don't let a battery get hot to the touch and boil violently when charging.
- Don't mix size and types of batteries.
While that was a detailed look at battery types and how to maintain them, there's always more to learn.
• Rated article 5 • March 13, 2025 at 3:11 pm
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• January 18, 2017 at 8:28 am
I have a Ford Transit with a single battery system. I also have a 1000 Watt inverter that I use to keep my phone and laptop charged. I have drained the battery to the point it will not start the Transit so I am trying to add additional power to keep from drawing the battery down for a longer period of time. After reading your article, it sounds like I should avoid drawing the vehicle battery down too low. Would you recommend dual batteries, a deep cycle battery, or…? I would greatly appreciate any ideas. Thank you!
• January 15, 2017 at 4:49 pm
• January 17, 2017 at 10:26 am
From 0 to 2 times per year our AC power goes out when it is raining.
Perhaps once every 5 years it goes out when Niagara Falls is flowing into our sump pit.
When this occurs is it profoundly essential the backup system work.
Most backup sump systems appear to be sold with 12V maintenance free deep cycle 75 or 100 AH AGM batteries.
Does this seem like the best choice?
Also, the systems are sold with controllers that charge the batteries occasionally. I assume this is important to obtain maximum battery life. Any advice here on ways to ensure periodic charging is occurring?
Finally, any other overall advice?
thanks much
nate
• June 24, 2016 at 6:51 pm
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• Rated article 5 • May 28, 2016 at 12:04 pm
• May 7, 2016 at 9:21 am
• Rated article 5 • May 9, 2016 at 8:22 am
I have a 100ah agm battery in my caravan which has buckled and wont hold a charge.
I am about to buy a new agm battery but hope you can advise me on the following.
When I head off on a trip I have the battery fully charged. I have an Anderson plug charging the battery whise we are driving, the question is, can a fully charged agm battery be damaged by overcharging by the charge it receives from the car while I am driving.
Regards
• April 25, 2016 at 5:16 pm
• Rated article 5 • April 26, 2016 at 8:57 am
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• Rated article 5 • September 5, 2014 at 3:17 pm
• Rated article 5 • September 25, 2014 at 9:48 am
My question is about what you say about batteries being the same size, rating and type. Of the 2 that came with the boat, #1 is a reg. acid starting battery and #2 is a deep cycle used as a house battery. Is that bad? should I avoid the “both” position of the selector?
• Rated article 5 • September 4, 2014 at 10:31 am
• Rated article 5 • September 12, 2014 at 12:37 pm
• August 23, 2014 at 6:45 pm
• August 25, 2014 at 2:36 pm
Thanks again.
• August 16, 2014 at 11:39 am
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• August 15, 2014 at 2:14 pm
My battery Name Lucas AP 100 12V 100AH 21 Plate made by Rahimafrooz Bangladesh. Please give me the repply. Thanks
Saiful Haque Khan
Bangladesh
saiful6848@gmail.com
+8801716579824 We would require more information about your situation. Please contact one of our techs at tech@batterystuff.com
• July 18, 2014 at 1:06 pm
• Rated article 4 • July 15, 2014 at 9:58 am
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• June 26, 2014 at 12:50 pm
• June 27, 2014 at 8:48 am
or should i charge separtly and use dual purpose. Once charge new and than Old. In house for electric city,Should i combine both sets, or I use old to discharge than switch to new for use.
• Rated article 3 • June 14, 2014 at 11:37 am
• June 16, 2014 at 11:04 am
We are using deep cell wet batteries 175AH (D27’s) one battery in each trailer. The batteries in the trailers only get a 1/2-1 hour charge from the 7 way trailer plug when they are ran to site and dumped. I don’t have the amp draw of the “Dyna-Pack) electric/hydraulic motor/pump unit yet. It takes
15-30 seconds to fully dump the trailer. The batteries don't seem to last too long to these guys. The charge from the tow vehicle may be to low as the voltage drop in the 12 or 14 ga. wire used in the typical trailer tow package.
I was thinking about wiring in #4 ga. from the font to the rear trailer with a battery isolator so the trailer battery could receive a better charge rate., specially if being dumped every hour or two and only getting 1/2 or little more charge in between.
Is it worth it
$150 + isolator. I can install and get reasonable pricing on wire & terminals etc. Also what is the best battery to use as the trucks have different batteries in each of them?? Good site for info I must add. • May 21, 2014 at 9:58 am
• May 21, 2014 at 12:37 pm
• Rated article 5 • May 12, 2014 at 2:49 am
Technical questions can be submitted using the “contact us” tab at the top of the website. The comments for articles are not always reviewed by Techs, so the best way to get an expedient answer to a question, is to contact the correct department directly. Thanks
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• Rated article 5 • December 2, 2013 at 5:31 pm
• Rated article 5 • September 1, 2013 at 3:04 pm
I have 2 12 Volt batteries and want to use them both/ But i still want to use them for 12 volts. I just want extra backup.
Please reply me anyone ASAP.
• Rated article 4 • June 25, 2013 at 10:39 pm
• June 26, 2013 at 9:04 am
Thanks for input
• May 9, 2013 at 4:35 pm
• May 20, 2013 at 8:01 am
I want to use 6 LED lights (14-watt Par30 bulb 3500K).
also use of a fan for cooling the booth.
which type of battery do you recommend.
• April 30, 2013 at 5:55 am
• May 6, 2013 at 7:48 am
• April 12, 2013 at 4:36 pm
• April 15, 2013 at 8:01 am
• March 19, 2013 at 9:50 am
• March 19, 2013 at 3:45 pm
• March 17, 2013 at 12:16 am
• Rated article 5 • March 16, 2013 at 6:54 am
• March 4, 2013 at 1:44 pm
• March 5, 2013 at 9:14 am
• February 17, 2013 at 9:50 am
• February 18, 2013 at 8:58 am
My question;- Can I replace these wet cells with AGM batteries without changing any charging facilities? and if this is OK, do I replace them all with dual purpose AGM‘s or do I have 2 different banks, 1 starting , 1 deep cycle. I have a manual(idiot) switch, for selecting each battery bank or both. My motor is a Ford Lees 85 HP deisel. Thanks in advance.
• Rated article 5 • February 12, 2013 at 8:59 pm
• February 13, 2013 at 8:49 am
my husbands 650cc motorcycle wasn‘t turning over so we figured it was the 12v battery. In order the check that it wasn‘t anything else we hooked up my new smaller scooter 12v battery to his bike and got it running. Now the scooter battery won‘t even turn the lights on the scooter even though the voltage meter says its fully charged. Could we have damaged the battery by using it in a different machine? The bikes take different size batteries with different amps but both 12 volts. thanks.
• Rated article 4 • February 2, 2013 at 7:17 pm
• February 4, 2013 at 1:18 pm
Thanks in advance.
• Rated article 5 • January 25, 2013 at 11:17 am
• January 25, 2013 at 1:06 pm
• Rated article 5 • January 18, 2013 at 12:05 pm
• January 18, 2013 at 12:06 pm
• Rated article 5 • January 17, 2013 at 8:42 am
• January 17, 2013 at 9:14 am
• Rated article 5 • January 16, 2013 at 8:41 am
• January 12, 2013 at 4:48 pm
• January 14, 2013 at 10:36 am
It appears that there may not be anything wrong with my batteries. I was told that the batteries must be charged every month or two or sulfation would set in. But the batteries not excepting a charge after 4 months was concerning. With no answers I decided to drain the batteries of two scooters by running the motors with the throttle on full and turning the lights on. However after 5 hours of constant running the scooters meters were still showing full and the volts where at 48.7 and my volt meter was showing 48.6 volts. After 5 hour only dropped 2 volts while protection shutoff is 42 volt. The next day I charged the batteries and yes they took a good charge, 7 hours and still taking a charge when I left for the day (I have them on a 12 hour timer). These Chaowei deep cycle gel batteries must be very good with little self discharge to not except a charge for 4 months.
• January 6, 2013 at 2:43 pm
• January 7, 2013 at 9:08 am
Very informative article, thank you. I have a problem with my camper van, 24 volt system for the truck, 25 amp alternator, fridge in the house on the truck that draws current from the 2 × 12 volt in series truck batteries. When ignition is off, the fridge stop drawing current. However, the truck batteries constantly run flat during driving, all well while I drive (diesel truck), but next morning the truck batteries are almost flat. The camper van house has it‘s own 12 volt battery, charged from solar, it performs OK. Currently the 12 volt fridge element draws amps from the second 12 volt truck battery, this implies that the fridge uses the power from the battery, not directly from the alternator. Is it possible that the power outflow from the battery is more than the charge inflow into the battery?. How many Amps can a battery continuously take while charging?. I now think I must tap the 24 volt directly from the alternator, then put it through a rectifier to get 12 volt, and then onwards to the fridge. This will leave the truck batteries free to charge at will without being drained by the fridge. If the truck batteries can only charge at say 6 amps, while the fridge draws 10 amps, the current set up will always discharge and leave me with flat batteries. Am I correct in my reasoning?. Please advise asap, Many thanks, Louw
• January 5, 2013 at 1:18 pm
• January 7, 2013 at 9:02 am
• Rated article 5 • December 26, 2012 at 2:29 pm
• December 28, 2012 at 8:36 am
• Rated article 5 • December 26, 2012 at 2:22 pm
• December 28, 2012 at 8:32 am
• December 17, 2012 at 7:34 pm
• December 18, 2012 at 9:02 am
• December 16, 2012 at 2:09 pm
• December 17, 2012 at 10:19 am
• December 4, 2012 at 1:36 am
• December 4, 2012 at 8:08 am
I am using a 17 inch CRT monitor which consumes 80W power. Here in India we use 220V Ac for our appliances.
• Rated article 5 • November 20, 2012 at 1:51 am
• Rated article 5 • November 19, 2012 at 11:09 pm
• November 20, 2012 at 11:58 am
• Rated article 5 • November 20, 2012 at 9:02 pm
• Rated article 2 • November 19, 2012 at 12:09 am
• November 19, 2012 at 2:42 pm
• November 20, 2012 at 3:25 am
• November 20, 2012 at 4:29 pm
”… and it will provide a total of 100 amp-hours …”
• October 28, 2012 at 6:22 pm
• October 29, 2012 at 9:21 am
• Rated article 5 • October 26, 2012 at 12:36 am
• October 26, 2012 at 8:33 am
I think the basic rule is that the batteries should not be discharged below 50% of their capacity, but what reliable method can I use to determine when they have reached this point? There are two auxiliary 12 volt batteries in series, each 120 amp-hour, to provide power for the “house system” – namely refrigerator, lights, water-pump, and various 12 volt power outlets. The refrigerator is the major user of battery power, because it is a compressor fridge which uses the equivalent of 12 volts 8amps (i.e.96 watts) while it is running, and it runs for approximately 8 to 12 hours in each 24 hour period depending on how hot the weather is. The auxiliary batteries are charged by two solar panels of 80 watts each, and receive additional charging from the vehicle alternator when the engine is running. There is a battery isolator which automatically disconnects the auxiliary batteries from the vehicle electrical system when the engine is not running. The voltage regulator for the solar panel charging system provides a constant display for the auxiliary system, including the auxiliary battery voltage. I have been in the habit of checking the voltage last thing at night, and first thing in the morning, to find how much power the fridge has taken from the batteries. If the night time voltage is below 24.8volts, then the morning reading is below 24.0 volts. The problem is that if we have not done much driving on a particular day, and the solar panels have not done much charging because of cloudy weather, the night-time voltage may only be 24.2 volts, and the morning voltage not much above 23 volts. If the battery is at 24.2 volts when the fridge is not running, then when the fridge starts running the voltage reading drops down to about 23.5 volts. And so my question remains, what is the lowest acceptable voltage for my auxiliary battery system, so that the batteries are not damaged by being discharged too much. Thank you for reading through a long and detailed letter, but I wanted to provide sufficient background information.
• October 22, 2012 at 4:35 pm
• October 23, 2012 at 10:50 am
• October 24, 2012 at 2:13 pm
I have always used 3 cheap regular truck size batteries, charged by the alternator and, with the almost every WE driving, had no problem running everything for 3 years without having to charge the batteries with an external charger
Recently, to lower the weight, I bought 2 trojan deep cycle batteries 225 that almost totalled the same Amp as the 3 previous ones
To my surprise, these batteries have gone dead last week after 6 months of use, although well maintained as far as water and regular charging through the alternator
The Tripp Lite works fine and we always avoid to use the battery lower than the yellow and red lights which indicate a battery load of 50 %
We did have a 2 minutes run on red light 2 weeks ago (as much as 80% discharge) and to prevent any further problem I recharged the batteries with an external charger together for 20 hours (for the first time in the last 10 years); the charger indicated 14V at the end of the charging process.
Unfortunately, on a trip last week I lost power faster then ever and ended up having to only use the refrigerator while driving, forgetting about the water pump or the coffee maker; I tried to recharge the batteries since then but the charger wont go over 10 volts and goes down to 8 and 7 after 10 hours
My question: since these trojan batteries are very expensive where I live (Peru) should I invest in a charger, what kind, and should I charge the batteries everyday from my house? The car is in the street and I cant go check every 2 hours what the voltage is, so is there a charging process that is safe, guaranteed on the long term for these batteries?
Once again this is the full description of my configuration:
bus sprinter with alternator of 100 Amp
starter battery of 120 Amp
2 trojan deep cycle 225 130 amp each output 12V
one tripp lite inverter 12-120V 2,400 Watts
Thank you so much for your answer which should interest many people like me who just want to understand how to run a simple 3 or 4 devices in their camper
• February 9, 2013 at 1:22 pm
• February 11, 2013 at 11:13 am
I have a Die Hard 1150: 20ah AGM power pack. As per your explanations, I leave it plugged in because it has an integrated smart charger that is supposed to provide a safe float charge to maintain the battery‘s health. I have two questions relative to this: 1. Is it normal that the battery is slightly warm to the touch when it is plugged, has reached 100% and is receiving a maintenance charge? 2. Are dangerous gases given off while the battery is plugged in and receiving a trickle charge? My battery is plugged in in the basement workshop in a fairly large house. Thanks for any information you can provide and take care. Peter
• Rated article 5 • October 14, 2012 at 3:22 pm
• October 15, 2012 at 1:14 pm
• Rated article 5 • October 9, 2012 at 4:31 pm
• October 11, 2012 at 9:28 am
• Rated article 5 • January 15, 2013 at 12:10 pm
• January 15, 2013 at 1:19 pm
• September 27, 2012 at 7:00 am
• September 27, 2012 at 8:17 am
• Rated article 5 • September 26, 2012 at 4:55 am
• September 26, 2012 at 9:26 am
1) Two UPSs. Both are independent systems.
2) Both are identical; Manufacturer: Delta; Model:J-Series 7 KVA. Each capacity: 5000 Watt, 230 Volt AC.
3) Each has 20 numbers of 12 Volt 26 AH batteries connected in series for a 240 Volt DC, 26 AH battery bank. Objective:
a)Design a battery bank in such a way that even if one battery fails, the bank would still be operational and keep the UPS running until the failed battery is replaced.
b)Try reconfiguring existing battery bank so that cost is minimized. Proposed setup:
1)Instead of two identical but separate battery banks as configured now, reconfigure the 40 batteries in one battery bank.
2)Batteries will be connected in series and also in parallel as listed in the diagram.
3)Two batteries will be connected in parallel to form one 12 Volt 52 AH parallel battery bank pair. Twenty such pairs will be linked in series to form one 240 Volt DC 52 AH bank.
4)Connect both UPSs to this one battery bank.
5)The 230 Volt AC “Output” of the UPSs would remain independent as they are now. Attached Diagram:
Both the current setup as well as the proposed setup are illustrated.
(No change in the independent “Outputs” of the two UPSs. The 230 Volt AC “Output” of the two UPSs would remain the same (as independent outputs) in the proposed setup as they are now in the existing setup.) Advantages:
1)When any one battery fails, the entire bank would still be operational. (Hence, the UPSs will not fail.)
2)So long as “both” batteries connected in any parallel pair do not fail, the bank would still be operational. Question:
1)Would the battery charging circuits in each UPS somehow interfere with each other?
2)Are there other issues and/or disadvantages in the proposed system that are overlooked?
When electrical power is On, would the battery charging systems in each UPS interfere with each other when charging the single battery bank? In other words, currently just as one UPS charges its own battery bank, would the two UPSs charge the single common battery bank without issues? We would be very thankful to you if you can please give us your valuable feedback on our proposed battery bank set up. Selvan Albert.
• Rated article 5 • September 19, 2012 at 7:26 am
• Rated article 4 • September 17, 2012 at 11:44 am
• September 17, 2012 at 12:18 pm
• September 17, 2012 at 11:41 am
• September 11, 2012 at 1:53 pm
• September 11, 2012 at 2:20 pm
• September 12, 2012 at 6:42 am
• September 12, 2012 at 7:45 am
• September 8, 2012 at 1:34 pm
• September 10, 2012 at 8:57 am
• September 7, 2012 at 11:38 pm
• September 10, 2012 at 8:42 am
• Rated article 5 • September 6, 2012 at 12:52 am
• September 6, 2012 at 8:48 am
• August 31, 2012 at 3:38 pm
• September 4, 2012 at 3:10 pm
• Rated article 5 • August 27, 2012 at 5:01 pm
• August 28, 2012 at 10:24 am
• Rated article 4 • August 19, 2012 at 6:52 pm
• August 20, 2012 at 11:47 am
1- my battery have the same age
2- i cant increase the charger voltage because its max volt is 52.5 also till now i dont try another charger or charge each battery individually
3- these readings for each battery but while they connected to the charger and for example when im add all the reading ( 13.4+12.66+12.9+13.54) its equal to 52.5 which is the charger voltage and when im disconnect the charger and after 1 hr battery reading is ( 12.7 , 12.5 , 12.7 , 12.6 ) i think battery No 1 and 4 prevent the voltage to rais in battery 2 and 3 so they cannot charge fully , also at the first 8 month all the battery have the same reading when charging . do recommend individually charging for each battery to force it reach to 13.6 v and accept current , like using 48 v charger with 4 bank or its no problem to use 48 v charger with one bank also if i want to desulfate it it is better to use obd-12 for each on or use obd 48 for each 4 batteries also what is the recomended methode to charge and maintain this system to get maximum life for the batteries .
thanks & best regard
• Rated article 5 • August 20, 2012 at 2:35 pm
• August 21, 2012 at 7:50 am
• August 21, 2012 at 11:01 am
I have (8) x 6V x 125AH deep cycle batteries producing 24V in a series/parallel config
charged by a 250W x 24V solar panel,powering a 24V fridge/freezer 24/7 drawing 2A when running.
Am i correct in assuming my total stored AH capacity should be sufficient to run the fridge
with minimal sunlight for a few weeks.
Cheers
Max
• August 16, 2012 at 2:52 am
• August 16, 2012 at 9:43 am
i have a solar system & i am using a device that measures the voltage of the batteries and send it through a serial port to the computer, that can show me the health at anytime of the day.
i have 8 batteries connected in parallel, and the problem that i am trying to think of a solution is that the measuring device is treating the 8 batteries as one, and gives me a single reading. But in order for my monitoring project to work, i want to be able to measure each battery alone, even when they are connected in parallel together…
I know this sounds impossible, but I still need to think of all possibilities.
Anyone with any clues would be very helpful. Thanks.
• August 14, 2012 at 8:16 pm
• August 15, 2012 at 11:16 am
• August 11, 2012 at 7:17 pm
• Rated article 5 • August 3, 2012 at 2:01 pm
• August 3, 2012 at 4:07 pm
• July 30, 2012 at 12:42 am
• July 30, 2012 at 3:17 pm
I do have a question for you that I hope you can help with please.
I have had our motorhome for nearly 2 years and it came with a couple of solar panels – one of which is rather large. However we have had a couple of problems with cooked batteries! Basically, we discovered our battery was being cooked by one of our solar panels as the regulator was not working. We got that sorted and replaced the very smelly leisure battery. But just recently the same thing happened again and we discovered that our very large solar panel didn‘t have a regulator on it at all. We realised very quickly and disconnected the battery which was beginning to sulphar up and smell. We have since added a regulator and although the battery was able to be cleaned up we are finding that it now will take a decent charge but is only holding that charge for about 45 minutes. So we have 2 great solar panels and no holding charge. Do you think that this is due to the damaged battery or could it be something else? It is a sealed battery and so we cannot tell what state it is in internally. Thank you.
• Rated article 5 • July 25, 2012 at 2:18 pm
• July 26, 2012 at 8:35 am
• July 22, 2012 at 9:07 am
• July 23, 2012 at 4:07 pm
• July 14, 2012 at 9:40 am
• July 16, 2012 at 10:09 am
• July 13, 2012 at 6:49 pm
• July 16, 2012 at 10:00 am
A relay disconnect de paralel when the motor is off. Thanks
• July 10, 2012 at 11:37 am
• July 10, 2012 at 12:17 pm
I just bought a 12v 7.2ah Valve regulated Lead acid battery for $5.00 I tested the volts and it‘s at 12.75 a sticker reads “Top Charge Date 4/26/2007 I ran a motor from it for 2 minutes and it held up. I charged it and it took a charge. Should I run a cordless drill motor from it for as long as I can to see how long it last? Or should I leave well enough a lone?
Thanks Trevor
• July 8, 2012 at 2:12 pm
• July 9, 2012 at 10:19 am
• June 30, 2012 at 12:29 am
• July 2, 2012 at 10:24 am
CAN I DO ANYTHING TO BRING BACK THIS BATTERY? OR DO I NEED TO BY A NEW ON. I ADDED A LITTLE WATER TO THIS BATTERY EVEN THOUGH I KNEW IT DOESNT TAKE WATER WILL THIS HURT IT IT DOESNT CHARGE COMPLETELY ANYWAY.
can i use lead acid batterys in this hoveround to get it going to test it?
LET ME KNOW IF YOU CAN HELP
THANKS
MARV
• June 26, 2012 at 7:20 am
• June 26, 2012 at 10:55 am
• June 22, 2012 at 4:18 pm
• June 25, 2012 at 8:39 am
This seems like it could cause a problem as battery 1 is connected to battery 2 in series which means, battery + of one is connected to battery – of the second, wouldn‘t boosting cause problems?? how does one go about doing this safely to himself and the machine being boosted.
• Rated article 5 • June 15, 2012 at 10:36 am
• June 15, 2012 at 2:57 pm
• Rated article 4 • June 14, 2012 at 1:28 am
• June 14, 2012 at 8:54 am
• June 12, 2012 at 3:14 am
• June 12, 2012 at 1:31 pm
• June 10, 2012 at 1:06 pm
• July 11, 2012 at 5:14 pm
• July 12, 2012 at 8:47 am
• June 12, 2012 at 12:18 pm
20 amp hour rate:55
35 Amp Hour
32 Min @ 10 Amp
So I am again confused about the true meaning of the amp hour.
I think this is what I need to look for as I am looking for batteries for a trolling motor.
• June 9, 2012 at 7:13 am
• June 12, 2012 at 12:10 pm
32degrees and the other is 505 ca
32 degrees, the first is rated at 140 minutes and the other is 120 minutes. Can these be connected in parallel without problems? Can they also be charged in parallel using one charger? • June 5, 2012 at 5:08 am
• June 5, 2012 at 11:32 am
• Rated article 5 • March 27, 2013 at 4:32 am
• June 3, 2012 at 9:14 pm
• June 5, 2012 at 11:30 am
• Rated article 5 • May 28, 2012 at 12:16 pm
• May 29, 2012 at 8:56 am
• May 26, 2012 at 7:27 am
• May 29, 2012 at 8:18 am
• May 21, 2012 at 1:00 pm
• May 22, 2012 at 9:58 am
• May 21, 2012 at 11:20 am
• May 22, 2012 at 9:46 am
• Rated article 5 • May 20, 2012 at 3:37 pm
• May 22, 2012 at 10:27 am
• Rated article 5 • May 17, 2012 at 6:46 pm
• May 18, 2012 at 9:22 am
• May 16, 2012 at 4:23 am
• May 16, 2012 at 2:44 pm
I got back my voltage of 13.7v and the smart charger is pulsing without mass charging for 1 week.
However the battery still unable to start my car. The battery can supply headlight, horn and etc. Should i give up this battery or any other way to try it out? I notice 1 of the electrolyte‘s in a cell is not drying up even after a long charge. the other cells always keep drying up and require to top up with battery water. Is the cell dead and cannot be revive anymore? thanks.
• May 14, 2012 at 10:35 pm
• May 16, 2012 at 10:53 am
• Rated article 5 • May 9, 2012 at 4:09 pm
• May 9, 2012 at 4:17 pm
• Rated article 5 • May 8, 2012 at 11:48 am
• May 8, 2012 at 12:02 pm
• Rated article 5 • May 5, 2012 at 8:09 pm
• May 7, 2012 at 12:36 pm
cheers
• Rated article 5 • April 23, 2012 at 9:51 pm
• April 24, 2012 at 11:49 am
• April 20, 2012 at 3:29 pm
• April 20, 2012 at 4:10 pm
• April 21, 2012 at 4:42 am
• April 23, 2012 at 8:46 am
I asked a question a few weeks ago and have been looking for a reply. My question is about running LED lights on a 12v vs a 24 volt system. I have 17 lights that are 27 watts each and want to get the maximum runtime. I have seen your calculators but do not have all the imput parameters. The batteries I am thinking about are deep cycle with 210 reserve capacity. Thanks.
• Rated article 5 • April 16, 2012 at 1:15 pm
• April 16, 2012 at 2:34 pm
• Rated article 4 • April 16, 2012 at 9:30 am
• April 16, 2012 at 11:19 am
• Rated article 5 • April 10, 2012 at 12:27 pm
• April 10, 2012 at 2:06 pm
• April 9, 2012 at 4:38 am
• April 9, 2012 at 9:35 am
• April 7, 2012 at 1:16 pm
• April 9, 2012 at 9:23 am
• August 17, 2012 at 2:03 pm
• August 17, 2012 at 2:20 pm
• March 31, 2012 at 6:46 am
• April 2, 2012 at 8:16 am
• March 28, 2012 at 7:23 am
• March 28, 2012 at 8:01 am
• Rated article 5 • March 23, 2012 at 11:27 am
I have a YP17-12 (12V17AH) Maintenance Free Lead Acid battery in my Bushranger Power Tank (for jump starting). It‘s was showing over 12 volts after about 10 hours at 1 amp. I tried to load test (it failed) and it‘s now just under 12 volts. It has a plastic strip which when I popped it off with a screwdriver there were little caps on each filling hole. Can I add distilled water to it even if it had gel. I up-ended it with caps off over a container and not a single drop of liquid came out making me think it is not a wet acid type. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
• Rated article 5 • March 20, 2012 at 5:22 am
• March 20, 2012 at 10:54 am
• March 19, 2012 at 12:04 pm
• March 19, 2012 at 12:58 pm
I only use my car on weekends. My question is: Can I use a Smart Charger whenever the car is stopped? This will not overcharge the battery?
My car has an AGM battery.
Thanks in advance for your help.
• March 18, 2012 at 11:55 am
• March 19, 2012 at 11:30 am
• March 18, 2012 at 12:40 am
• March 20, 2012 at 11:46 am
• Rated article 4 • March 17, 2012 at 6:33 am
• March 19, 2012 at 11:06 am
• Rated article 5 • March 13, 2012 at 2:19 pm
• March 13, 2012 at 3:28 pm
I have my battery amp hour for 20hrs discharge but i need the battery to store enuf cahrge for 3 days, so ut is trippled, do i still use the C20 rating or do i use the C72hrs rating for it? i am confused. and the needed Current is about 6000Amp-hour
• Rated article 5 • March 13, 2012 at 2:49 am
• March 13, 2012 at 9:14 am
• March 12, 2012 at 10:46 am
• March 13, 2012 at 11:56 am
• Rated article 3 • March 12, 2012 at 10:16 am
How does one test SMF batteries on-site for e.g. Server UPS batteries. ? The test-gig should be portable though.
• Rated article 5 • March 12, 2012 at 3:30 am
• March 12, 2012 at 11:58 am
• Rated article 5 • March 8, 2012 at 4:21 pm
• May 8, 2012 at 8:53 am
• May 8, 2012 at 9:59 am
• March 9, 2012 at 9:30 am
• March 5, 2012 at 5:33 pm
• March 6, 2012 at 8:46 am
• March 2, 2012 at 9:06 am
• March 2, 2012 at 9:11 am
• March 2, 2012 at 9:25 am
• March 2, 2012 at 9:35 am
(1)Could I try to replace the 11 volt battery only, presuming its a dead cell?
(2)Would you recommend that I replace these batteries with two AGM batteries with a comparable AH rating? Can I use the same charger on these batteries?
(3) Any other way out of this dilemma, such as using a maintenance-free lead acid battery with a comparable AH? Thanks very much, John
Thanks very much
• March 2, 2012 at 6:07 am
• Rated article 4 • June 19, 2012 at 11:20 am
• June 20, 2012 at 12:41 pm
2) If you do decide to upgrade to AGM, your Gel charger will work. Commonly, AGM batteries charge best at a higher voltage, but those chargers would damage the Gel.
3) When creating a battery bank, it‘s recommended to use batteries of the same voltage, AH rating, and type. 80AH AGM batteries will work for your system just fine, but good battery maintenance is still recommended, regardless of the battery chemistry type.
• March 2, 2012 at 9:29 am
• February 29, 2012 at 9:55 am
• February 29, 2012 at 10:04 am
• Rated article 5 • February 24, 2012 at 11:33 am
• February 24, 2012 at 11:56 am
• February 23, 2012 at 5:43 pm
Over sophisticated temp (seats, engine) and security sensors and free radical computer connections can create the power use problem. If you can find a reset button/or code it helps.
• June 25, 2014 at 1:29 am
• June 25, 2014 at 9:00 am
• February 24, 2012 at 7:49 am
• February 22, 2012 at 6:21 pm
• February 23, 2012 at 12:01 pm
2. Which de-sulfation device do you most highly recommend to remove sulfation from battery plates?
3. How much time is required to fully de-desulfate a battery? If the de-sulfation device isn‘t capable of fully de-sulfating a battery, can you let me know how much de-sulfation such a device can provide. Thx, Z
• February 17, 2012 at 4:37 am
2)If you have a flooded battery, I recommend using Battery Equalizer in conjunction with a pulsing charging, such as Battery MINDer or PulseTech. Exact model will depend on the capacity of your battery.
3)You’ll see the most dramatic results after about 2 weeks of continuous pulsing. The harder, crystallized sulfate which took a long time to build up may take an additional 2 months before reaching a another restore point. On average, a de-sulfated battery may be restored up to 80% of its original factory capacity.
• February 17, 2012 at 9:58 am
• February 16, 2012 at 1:10 am
• Rated article 5 • February 16, 2012 at 8:32 am
• April 15, 2012 at 8:49 am
• April 16, 2012 at 11:03 am
• February 14, 2012 at 4:31 pm
• February 9, 2012 at 2:20 pm
• February 9, 2012 at 2:50 pm
• Rated article 3 • November 10, 2014 at 10:07 pm
• Rated article 4 • February 4, 2012 at 5:19 pm
• Rated article 5 • February 6, 2012 at 2:40 pm
Pls help us to decide.
thanks
• February 2, 2012 at 3:31 am
/kb/battery-articles/gel-vs-agm.html
• February 2, 2012 at 8:31 am
very informative alas i did not solve my problem
what is the method of getting a rechargable battery to hold charge,
will short overcharging periods do the trick?
• Rated article 5 • January 30, 2012 at 9:31 pm
• January 31, 2012 at 7:44 am
• Rated article 5 • January 27, 2012 at 7:15 am
• Rated article 5 • January 27, 2012 at 9:23 am
• Rated article 5 • January 26, 2012 at 11:03 am
• Rated article 5 • March 7, 2012 at 11:41 pm
• June 14, 2012 at 6:01 pm
• June 15, 2012 at 8:43 am
• August 27, 2012 at 12:32 pm
• Rated article 4 • January 23, 2012 at 7:38 am
• Rated article 5 • October 27, 2013 at 10:35 am
• Rated article 4 • January 22, 2012 at 8:06 am
• January 23, 2012 at 8:50 am
• Rated article 5 • January 18, 2012 at 2:04 pm